It's just about that time of the year...not quite, but almost. The point in time where you want to forego interaction with most humans, where your circadian rhythms and internal clock scream, "HIBERNATE!" full blast in preparation for the cold that's sure to follow, where you're dying to curl up at home on a weekend night but kind of fearful that too many weekends in a row of you and Modern Family might result in permanent damage to your social life... Cue: DINNER PARTY. It need not be a flamboyant undertaking (although it can be, if you wish), nor does it need to take up all day. Plus, cook with others and suddenly it's an event, an evening, an activity. Anais seems to be the one prompting me to cook recently, and it was at her suggestion that we got a small group together for this weekend's affair.
What to make, what to make? I wanted something easy, something one-pot (or close to it), something comforting yet impressive, and something that we could do together. What better a time than to bust out my mother's bouillabaisse (French fish and seafood soup/stew) recipe? Yellow, fraying and splattered with cooking juices, we keep the instructions in a plastic envelope for fear that one day this magical artifact will disintegrate into thin air (and looking at the picture below, it seems as though that day is not too far away). Torn from the New York Times in 1975, it's one of our oldest and most cherished recipes. I always make a few modifications which I'll share with you below.
 |
| Legendary soup and recipe. |
And I know I didn't have to add anything to that, but I'm feeling pretty Europe-tantilized these days (one of my best friends just moved to Belgium and my parents are all giddy that they're visiting Paris for a dermatology conference in December), so what better than to go with the French theme and make a Tarte Tatin? Deceptively easy, ethereally delicious, and completely manageable, it's the perfect dessert to pair with this meal. And last but not least, some cheese! We didn't have a cheese course, instead I served it with chunky, grainy country bread at the same time as the soup in order to spread the gooey delicacies on the bread and dip it into the broth forming a melty, tomato-y mouthful of goodness. But I cannot emphasize enough the value of going to a real cheesemonger and talking to the guy (or girl). Explain what you like. Tell them what you don't. Be honest if you don't know much. They WILL help; that's what they're there for! I told my guy, "I like melty cheeses. I like it when my cheeses smell like four-day-old toe jam. BUT I'm having guests, and they might not like their milk products quite so funky." He put together the four most perfect cheeses - three from Quebec and one from Switzerland - wonderful complements to each other, different textures, colours, types of milk, scents, strengths...a lovely companion to the soup.
 |
| CHEESE! Yes, I made little label-flags. You have full permission to make fun of me. |
Since I made the meal backwards (dessert first, the main later), I'll include it here backwards too.
Tarte Tatin
Sour Cream Pastry
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 (1 1/2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
6 tablespoons chilled sour cream
Apple Filling
3/4 stick unsalted butter, cut into large chunks
1 cup of sugar (don't cut these amounts down any further! I already omitted 1/2 a cup of sugar and 1/4 stick of butter!)
approx 8 medium (about 3.5 lbs) Gala apples (or other apples good for baking)
a pinch of cinnamon (optional)
a pinch of ground ginger (optional)
1 egg, beaten to blend
Blend flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl/mixer with a whisk attachment. Add butter and beat at medium-slow speed until butter is the size of small peas, about 3 minutes. Add sour cream and beat until moist clumps form, about 1 minute. Gather dough into a ball, press together, and flatten into 6-inch-diameter disk. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until cold, about 2 hours. You can make this a day ahead of time and let soften slightly before rolling out!).
Preheat oven to 425 C. Spread butter over the bottom of a 12-inch-diameter ovenproof skillet (if the handle of your skillet is plastic you CANNOT put it in the oven!! You'll have to move the apples to a pie dish before baking). Sprinkle sugar over butter and place over medium-low heat, cooking until better melts, sugar begins to dissolve, and mixture starts to bubble, about 3 minutes.
 |
| Melting the butter and sugar...deadly. I have a feeling my guests are glad they're only seeing this now |
Remove from heat. Arrange apples on their sides around the edge of the skillet, placing apples tightly together. Arrange as many apples as will fit, and sprinkle with a touch more sugar, and a pinch of cinnamon and ginger, if using. Put skillet over medium heat, boil, adding extra apples as there is room, until a thick peanut butter colour syrup forms, about 45 minutes. If wanted, you can flip apples using a fork or paring knife halfway through to ensure even cooking (that's what I did), adding a touch more cinnamon and ginger once flipped.
 |
| Add the apples in concentric circles |
 |
| Bubble, bubble, toil and trouble... |
 |
Cook until liquid is thick and about the colour of peanut butter. The addition of some cinnamon and a sprinkle of ground dried ginger spices things up a touch.
Remove from heat once peanut butter colour forms. Roll out pastry on floured surface to 12-inch round; place over apples. Cut four 2-inch slits on the top of pastry. Press pastry down around apples at the edge of the skillet; brush pastry with some of the egg glaze.
Bake tart until pastry is deep golden brown, about 30 minutes. Transfer to work surface and cool one minute. Cut around the edge of skillet to loosen pastry Place a large platter over skillet. Using oven mitts to protect your hands, hold the skillet and platter together TIGHTLY and invert, allowing the tart to fall onto the platter. Lift off skillet, and rearrange any stray or wandering apples. Cool tart 30 minutes and serve with ice cream, creme fraiche, or sour cream. Voila!
|
 |
| Flip the dough over and tuck under the apples. |
 |
| Bake until browned, and then remove from oven. |
 |
| Carefully flip onto platter and rearrange any fallen/out-of-place/naughty apples. Enjoy! |
Bouillabaisse
About 8 servings
Ingredients
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chunks of onion (I added 2 leeks and reduced the amount of onion by about as much)
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1/2 tablespoon loosely packed saffron stems (if you're a student on a budget, you can omit these - they're expeez - but if not, I would encourage you not to skimp...saffron is subtle but makes all the difference)
1/4 cup of flour
2 cups fish stock, clam juice or water
2 cups peeled, red, ripe tomatoes, fresh or canned (I use canned)
2 cups (or even more) dry white wine
1 1/4 pounds fillet of non-oily, white-fleshed fish like sea bass, talapia, or any other that will hold well in a soup (ask your fish dude!)
1 pint or more scrubbed, well-cleaned mussels or littleneck clams (I used clams)
1 teaspoon chopped thyme (if you have)
about 10 shakes Tabasco
1 cup 15% cream
salt and pepper to taste
Parsley to taste
**Note** You can also toss in other seafood - here I used some shrimp and squid, but you can also toss in lobster, scallops, crab meat, etc.
Directions
Heat oil in a pot and add onion, leeks if using, garlic and saffron until fragrant and soft, about 4-5 minutes. Stir in flour using a wire whisk.
Add fish stock, tomatoes and wine, stirring rapidly with the whisk. When blended, cook, stirring often, about 30 minutes.
 |
| Onions, leeks, garlic, oil, whisked together with flour to create a roux (this will thicken the stew once the liquid is added!) |
 |
| Clam juice and wine. |
 |
| Added tomates! (aka tomatoes) |
 |
| Whiskwhiskwhisk. |
Cut the fish into 1 1/2 inch cubes (better too big than too small, they will flake unto smaller pieces while cooking anyways), there should be about 3 cups. Add the fish and cook about 5 minutes or until fish flakes easily. Add the rest of the ingredients and simmer about 5 more minutes, until clams/mussels open and any other seafood is cooked through (sometimes I add a touch more wine here and let it cook down if it looks too thick for my liking).
NOTE! All this can be done before or as your guests arrive. Keep it on a low simmer. HOWEVER, if you're adding squid, only toss it in a minute or two before you plan on serving the soup, otherwise it will get rubbery!
